S13/S14 factory wheel and tire sizes:
4-Lug steelies: 15x6" +40mm w/ 195/60/R15
4-Lug alloys: 15x6" +40mm w/205/60/R15
5-Lug alloys: 16x6.5 +40mm w/205/55/R16
S13/S14 factory lug specifications:
4-Lug: 4x114.3 (72-87 ftlb)
5-Lug: 5x114.3 (72-87 ftlb)
Thread size: 12mmx1.25
Wheel/tire info and calculators:
Basic wheel and lug terminology and metrics: here.
Wheel and tire size calculator: here.
Wheel and tire size calculator: here.
Offset calculator: here.
Wheel and tires weights:
Wheel weight database: here.
Will "X" wheel with "Y" tire fit on my car?
Wheel fitment database: here.
Maximum S-chassis wheel/tire fitment (For Grip): here.
Maximum S-chassis wheel/tire fitment (Stretched): here.
Parts Needed to do a 5-Lug conversion:
S13 Front:
- S14 SE front hubs or S13 "conversion" hubs (Ichiba, Circuit Sports, etc.)
- S14 spindles*
- S14 ball joints (pressed into the S13 LCA)*
- S14 SE front rotors (or re-drilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
*Not needed if using aftermarket "conversion" hubs
S14 Base Model Front:
- S14 SE front hubs
- S14 SE front rotors (or redrilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
S13/S14 Rear:
- S14 SE or Z32 (non-turbo) rear hubs
- S14 SE rear rotors (or re-drilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
FSM's:
240SX: here.
300ZX: here.
Maxima: here.
Basics for "aggressive" fitment:
Offset is a measure of how far the mounting face (surface that touches the brake rotor) is from the centerline of the wheel. When you want to run a wider wheel with the same backspacing, the inner edge of the wheel will come closer to your suspension, eventually hitting the frame, control arms, coilovers or bodywork. To avoid this, wider wheels are made with lower (more negative) offsets. The side effect of this is the wheels "poke" out more. This "poke" makes the car look better by getting rid of the wheel gap almost all stock vehicles have. We try to take this a step further by stretching tires and running offsets so low that the wheel lip actually extends beyond the bodywork, while the tire tucks into the body.
Sunken:
Example with a stock Miata wheel set-up
Good fit would be flush with the fender wells. This, of course, may be too aggressive for some. Others seek this type of fitment.
Take a tape measure to the stock wheels and measure the gap to the fender arch from the wheel lip then use the calculator above to determine what offset you want. Remember that you can always get more negative spacing with spacers but you wanna be close. If they are too negative (sticking out too far), it will be difficult to get them back in if not impossible. Typically would require machining and cannot be done on most wheels without a huge compromise in strength possibly ruining wheel integrity.
4-Lug steelies: 15x6" +40mm w/ 195/60/R15
4-Lug alloys: 15x6" +40mm w/205/60/R15
5-Lug alloys: 16x6.5 +40mm w/205/55/R16
S13/S14 factory lug specifications:
4-Lug: 4x114.3 (72-87 ftlb)
5-Lug: 5x114.3 (72-87 ftlb)
Thread size: 12mmx1.25
Wheel/tire info and calculators:
Basic wheel and lug terminology and metrics: here.
Wheel and tire size calculator: here.
Wheel and tire size calculator: here.
Offset calculator: here.
Wheel and tires weights:
Wheel weight database: here.
Will "X" wheel with "Y" tire fit on my car?
Wheel fitment database: here.
Maximum S-chassis wheel/tire fitment (For Grip): here.
Maximum S-chassis wheel/tire fitment (Stretched): here.
Parts Needed to do a 5-Lug conversion:
S13 Front:
- S14 SE front hubs or S13 "conversion" hubs (Ichiba, Circuit Sports, etc.)
- S14 spindles*
- S14 ball joints (pressed into the S13 LCA)*
- S14 SE front rotors (or re-drilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
*Not needed if using aftermarket "conversion" hubs
S14 Base Model Front:
- S14 SE front hubs
- S14 SE front rotors (or redrilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
S13/S14 Rear:
- S14 SE or Z32 (non-turbo) rear hubs
- S14 SE rear rotors (or re-drilled 4-lug rotors)
- 5-lug wheels
FSM's:
240SX: here.
300ZX: here.
Maxima: here.
Basics for "aggressive" fitment:
Offset is a measure of how far the mounting face (surface that touches the brake rotor) is from the centerline of the wheel. When you want to run a wider wheel with the same backspacing, the inner edge of the wheel will come closer to your suspension, eventually hitting the frame, control arms, coilovers or bodywork. To avoid this, wider wheels are made with lower (more negative) offsets. The side effect of this is the wheels "poke" out more. This "poke" makes the car look better by getting rid of the wheel gap almost all stock vehicles have. We try to take this a step further by stretching tires and running offsets so low that the wheel lip actually extends beyond the bodywork, while the tire tucks into the body.
Sunken:
Example with a stock Miata wheel set-up
Good fit would be flush with the fender wells. This, of course, may be too aggressive for some. Others seek this type of fitment.
Take a tape measure to the stock wheels and measure the gap to the fender arch from the wheel lip then use the calculator above to determine what offset you want. Remember that you can always get more negative spacing with spacers but you wanna be close. If they are too negative (sticking out too far), it will be difficult to get them back in if not impossible. Typically would require machining and cannot be done on most wheels without a huge compromise in strength possibly ruining wheel integrity.